A 3 oz. bar of Scharffen Berger comes in a classy, understated paper wrapping—none of that tacky plastic that’s a staple of candy lining store checkout lanes—along with a hefty price tag of $4.95. The company was created in 1997 in California as the first “bean-to-bar” chocolatier launched in the U.S. in more than half a century, and claims to have “led this country’s contemporary resurgence in artisan chocolate-making.” Besides sharing the same key ingredient, Sharffen Berger doesn’t seem to have much in common with Hershey, and yet as of 2005, the Pennsylvania-based chocolate giant has owned the high-end artisan brand.